![]() ![]() Good peel & stick tape provides a waterproof seal between the window and the wall sheathing. Lastly, we use Tyvek tape to seal the Tyvek to the windows to keep out wind driven rain. This allows us to install flashing tape, a super sticky 4” wide sealant tape with a peel & stick backing. When we remove and replace siding for our customers, we always remove the old WRB at the same time. This keeps some water out, but any moisture that gets behind the siding will almost certainly get in to the windows as well. When a replacement window installer cuts out the old window and inserts a new one, they are usually forced to seal the window by caulking it to the face of the existing siding or stucco. Sealing is an even bigger challenge when installing replacement windows. And maybe most importantly of all, proper sealing to windows and doors is difficult at the best of times, and was simply not possible 30 years ago. Wrapping tar paper around outside or inside corners takes far more fasteners than you would like to see, which means more holes in the water resistant barrier (WRB). In cold or windy conditions, it’s nearly impossible to avoid rips or tears. Tar paper has always come with a number of installation issues. Tar paper does a fine job of stopping water penetration in laboratory conditions, but on the wall is a very different story. In the 1980s and early 1990s, almost every home was wrapped with black paper infused with tar, known as tar paper. For this reason the traditional method of cutting away the rot and replacing the wood is the best option if you are dealing with a clear varnish finish.Standard details for sealing around windows have changed drastically over the last 30 years or so - and for good reason. It will not look good if sections of filler show through next to the wood. Note that because of the colour of the wood filler you are unlikely to get good results on an area that needs to be finished with clear varnish rather than paint. Once this has dried you can sand it down to make a smooth transition between the good wood and filler and paint the whole area. Then build up the area with wood filler, bringing the wood back to its original profile. You may need to wait some time for this to dry before continuing, sometime a whole day. ![]() With some wood hardener products you may then need to dry out the area with a heat gun before inserting the pellets and painting the area with the wood hardener. Usually you will need to remove the worst of the rotten wood, though there’s no need to go right back to good wood. They all work in slightly different ways though, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Then there may also be a high performance wood filler that can be used to build up areas where rotten wood has fallen away or been removed. Most of these products have wood preservative pellets which are inserted into holes drilled into the bad timber and a liquid wood hardener that’s painted on. These products will solidify and strengthen rotten wood so that it can then be repainted. If that’s all a bit out of your carpentry comfort zone there are a number of kits products on the market for dealing with rotten wood. Use good wood primer and then two coats of gloss if you are painting or two or three coats of clear varnish. Then put the screws in, tighten them and hide the heads with either a plug of wood or some wood filler.įinally sand down and paint or varnish the whole area. Apply glue to the sides of the recess and the new wood, clamp it into place and wait for that to dry. Don’t use nails, you need to be able to draw the new piece into the recess you’ve cut, and tightening the screws will do this.īefore you put the new piece of wood in paint it and the recess with wood preservative and wait for it to dry. Drill holes for screws and countersink the tops so that the heads will disappear below the surface of the new wood. Measure and cut replacement timber that will slot into the hole. If possible, cut the ends of the recess at 45 degrees that will make it easier to get the new piece to fit. Tidy the resulting hole up as much as possible to give straight edges for a replacement section to mate with. Don’t be tempted to leave any rotten wood behind, it will just mean that you have to do the job all over again in a year or two. Cut away all the rotten wood using a craft knife and a chisel, cutting back until you get to the good wood under or behind the rot.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |